Frequently Asked Questions

Click on the class name for a link to more information!

  • PUP1: For puppies 8-18 weeks of age. The cut off age of 18 weeks is at the FIRST class.
  • DOG1: For puppies and dogs 18 weeks and older. While your 18+ week old pup still has lots of puppy energy, they are entering their teenage years with adult teeth and jaw strength; it is unsafe to train the teenagers with the toddlers. The curriculum is very similar to PUP1. 
  • PUP2/DOG2: For dogs that have completed PUP1, DOG1 or equivalent.
  • FROLIC OR FIGHT? An essential online class for all dog owners. Learn to identify dog body language and play styles.
  • LIFE SKILLS FOR SHY/FEARFUL: If your dog is anxious, fearful and/or shy, this online class is a perfect introduction to learn basic obedience while building their confidence. 
  • LEASH REACTIVE: Does your dog jump, bark, lunge or growl at other dog’s while on leash, but is fine off leash? If yes, this class is for you! Learn to manage this common behavior in a safe and supportive online classroom.

The safety and well being of our clients and team is incredibly important to us. We are now offering select classes virtually via Zoom so you and your pup can participate from the safety of your own home. Any class on our schedule page that has “online” before the name is a virtual class.

We are offering in person adult dog classes as well as limited in person private training sessions.  We have implemented protocols to be in accordance with Local, State, and Federal recommendations. They are as follows:

  • Initial private training consultations are competed via Zoom in an effort to reduce in person interaction.
  • Private training and adult classes occur outdoors only.
  • We adhere to social distancing guidelines.
  • Our trainers wear masks, and ask that our clients do as well.
  • All equipment is sanitized before and directly following private lessons.

Nope. We agree with the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior’s (AVSAB) Position Statement on this topic: “In general, puppies can start puppy socialization classes as early as 7-8 weeks of age. Puppies should receive a minimum of one set of distemper/parvo vaccines at least 7 days prior to the first class and a first de-worming. They should be kept up to date throughout the class.”

We are strongly recommending to vaccinate against Canine Flu for all dogs: Canine Influenza Virus H3N2/H3N8 (CIV). Puppies: Starting at 8 weeks of age, then again 3 to 4 weeks later. Adult dogs: ASAP.

We’ll ask you to bring copies of your vaccination records to your first class or social.

Because of the limits to our classroom sizes, as well as the different training calendars that our classes are on, make-up sessions are not always possible. If you miss a lesson and we have room in another quickly upcoming class we will do our best to accommodate you. However, if there isn’t space available, then making up a class will not be an option. (You will receive the homework regardless, in order to practice at home.)

For this reason, please think seriously about your schedule before enrolling in our classes.

* Adult Dog Classes: No make-ups with the dog will be permitted. It can be too stressful on the class to add a new dog into an established group. You may however, audit another class without your dog if there is room.

Another option is to have a dog-loving friend or family member bring your dog to class for you. This keeps your dog current with the lessons and doubles up as bonus training by having your dog work with a different handler.

Adult Dogs are defined as those who are 5 months and older. Your dog will need a Rabies vaccine, and a DHPP (distemper-parvo) vaccine. Due to an outbreak of canine flu, we are strongly recommending that all dogs receive the Canine Influenza (H3N2 & H3N8) series before participating in class.

We require that you bring the vaccination records to the first class to that we can check them before you begin training with us. Please check with your veterinarian to be sure your doggie is current on all shots.

On the contrary, your pup needs to begin puppy class right away in order to receive careful, gentle socialization with safe people, other pups, and a variety of objects and environments. Your pup is still young and impressionable, which means there is a lot we can do to develop his confidence and prepare him for the Big World.

While it’s totally natural to want to safeguard your shy pup, did you know that shyness can later develop into behavior problems? Problems like fear-based aggression, attachment disorders, submissive urination, and the inability to cope in stressful situations. Pups with reserved or cautious natures can seem like they are “calm”, “submissive”, or “obedient” when they’re actually experiencing fear and stress. If not addressed, their responses and behavior tend to get worse as they mature.

You can avoid these issues by making the most of your pup’s critical development period which lasts from 8 weeks to 16 weeks of age. After this time, pups can still learn to be less afraid of things, but progress tends to be much slower than when they are younger.

As long as your pup has had at least one DHPP (distemper – parvo) vaccine and 7 days have passed since the shot was given, you are welcome to start Bravo’s puppy socials.

BravoPup socials are held indoors in safe locations that are sanitized before, during and after each class. We recommend that you carry your pup from your car into the classroom.

We feel that our socials are the safest, cleanest, healthiest, and best managed socialization events in town. Every social is supervised by two or more professional trainers who are skilled at directing dog play and making sure that all pups are having a positive social experience.

We are relentless advocates for early socialization because it’s clear to us, as well as to the top behavior experts in our field, that a lack of proper socialization is the chief reason that adult dogs develop serious behavior issues including fear and aggression. We often refer to socialization as “anti-aggression training”.

We agree with the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior’s (AVSAB) Position Statement on this topic: “In general, puppies can start puppy socialization classes as early as 7-8 weeks of age. Puppies should receive a minimum of one set of vaccines at least 7 days prior to the first class and a first de-worming. They should be kept up to date throughout the class.”

No. If your puppy is not well, we recommend that you call your veterinarian immediately so that you can discuss his/her symptoms and address your concerns. Follow your veterinarian’s advice.

Please do not bring a sick dog to class or puppy social.

We encourage you to come to class without your pup-dog and observe the lessons. We are unable to offer a refund or transfer in these situations and want to ensure you are able to continue with the training. There is much to be learned by observing the behavior of other dogs/pups. This way, you will be able to work with your dog during the week once he/she is feeling better.

We care deeply about the health and well-being of your dog. Please keep us informed of his or her health status.

We are small dog owners too, so we understand your reservations concerning big dogs. Carefully exposing your tiny pup to much larger pups is a fundamental part of our training process. For safety reasons, your little guy needs to learn how to act around the bigger guys. Let’s face it, it’s a big dog world out there, and a big dog encounter is eventually going to happen. So we want to prepare your little dog to handle it with confidence. We will guide you throughout this delicate and important process so that you feel safe handling your small dog in a variety of situations. We’ve done it zillions of times with tremendous success.

We are proud and enthusiastic practitioners of what’s commonly called “positive reinforcement training”. It’s also referred to as reward-based training, force-free training.

Positive reinforcement is the presentation of something rewarding to the dog that immediately follows a behavior that we approve of and like. The reward makes that behavior more likely to occur again in the future, and it is one of the most powerful tools for shaping or changing your pup’s behavior.

We do not recommend, endorse, or use any training techniques that are aversive to your dog, or that rely on pain, force, startle, or coercion to change your dog’s behaviors. As science-based trainers, we know there’s a far more powerful and humane way to help your dog learn and support the incredible relationship that the two of you can have together.

That’s why we Keep It Positive.

First, it helps to remember that food isn’t the only reward available. Anything your dog values can be used as a reward, whether it’s food, play, attention, or access to a desired place or object. These are all important and useful training tools. Our aim is to deliver the appropriate reward to your pup whenever he does something right.

Sometimes treats may be most important to your dog (especially if he’s hungry), sometimes play may be (especially if he hasn’t seen his buddies all day), sometimes it will be attention (eye contact, petting, praise), and sometimes the opportunity to get somewhere (like jumping into a puddle). Any of these can be at the top of your dog’s list on any given day.

But here’s why we use Food treats so often while training in class: for many dogs, the fastest way to their brains is through their stomachs. So food treats are a quick and and highly effective way to reward behaviors as they are being taught. Tiny food treats can be delivered repeatedly while we train in class. Plus, they are often they are often the single best tool we have to help your dog train successfully around the normal distraction levels in class.

Ideally, food should not be the only reward used to train your dog. Once your dog has learned to perform a behavior really well in a variety of conditions, food can often be swapped out for other rewards to help keep a behavior strongly reinforced. It takes loads of time and considerable skill to get to this point, and many owners try to take away the rewards too soon. Our advice is this: plan on training with food in every class for the first 2 years of your dog’s life. After that, he’ll know the drill and many behaviors will start to look automatic.

Ideally, you can aim for two 10 minute training ‘session-ettes’ each day. This may sound like a lot, but it’s not—it’s 20 minutes total. That said, it’s usually more realistic to sprinkle your pup’s lessons throughout the day and evening: two minutes here, two minutes there.

Most puppies have very short attention spans, which is why training sessions have to be short and frequent. Can you imagine sitting a pre-schooler at a desk and giving him/her an hour long exam? It would never work. So don’t overload your pup. Go for quality, not quantity. You’ll both have more fun.

Certainly. We love training with kids and we encourage all family members who will be participating in training your dog to attend class. Children can become very fine trainers, but they do require special consideration in an hour-long class situation. There are times when your child will have to sit quietly in class while the instructor is talking. Please consider if this will be easy or difficult for your child, and how it may affect your ability to concentrate as well.

We’ve observed that the attention span of young children can often be even shorter than that of puppies. We want you and everyone in your family to be able to focus on learning with your pup and have a great time. If you foresee challenges to this, please consider getting a sitter instead.

Most puppies have very short attention spans, which is why training sessions have to be short and frequent. Can you imagine sitting a pre-schooler at a desk and giving him/her an hour long exam? It would never work. So don’t overload your pup. Go for quality, not quantity. You’ll both have more fun.

For safety reasons we do not allow a single handler to bring more than one dog to a class. If you have registered multiple dogs for a class, please ensure that you have a separate handler for each dog, plus loads of treats.

The following criteria must be met for us to consider a partial refund, as ALL refunds are subject to$35 non-refundable processing fee.

  • We are unable to provide a refund if you cancel your enrollment within five business days (Mon-Fri: 9am-5pm) of class start date.
  • Even if you cancel enrollment outside of the 5 business days, a refund, minus a non-refundable $35 processing fee is issued IF AND ONLY IF we can fill your spot. We put forth our best effort but cannot guarantee a refund.
  • Even if you cancel with ample time to fill your spot, we will refund, minus a non-refundable $35 processing fee.
  • We regret that we are unable to refund class fees once class has commenced. If your dog is feeling unwell, we encourage you to attend the class without your dog in order to observe, and then practice at home during the week.
  • A refund will not be issued if your dog is removed from class due to behavioral issues. If you are uncertain if your dog is appropriate for class, please fill out our private training intake form and request a class evaluation: https://bravopup.com/private-training-intake-form 

Please be considerate and understanding of our policies. We limit enrollment in order to provide quality instruction and to maintain safety in our classrooms. We appreciate your understanding that once you have reserved a spot we agree to hold this spot for you in which case it is made unavailable to other students.

For these reasons, PLEASE THINK SERIOUSLY ABOUT YOUR SCHEDULE and commitment to training and your dog’s suitability for group classes before enrolling.

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